As woodworkers, one of the greatest challenges we face is becoming restricted shop space. It doesn’t matter if your shop is a backyard scattered, a 1 or 2 car garage, or a corner in an industrialized system. Having flat for the tools you need and area to work is a challenge. The router table extension wing for your table saw is typically the foundation of the workshop, but it’s also one of the biggest place hogs with an extension table, that for many, becomes the Bermuda triangle for fragments, coffee cups, and tools. But we’re not getting this one resting down. Preferably than accept that this space is exhausted, we’ve created an extension table that turns this underused space into a full-featured router table!
The All Router Table, Saw Router Table, is prepared in two different lengths: one for saws with a 50″ or 52″ fence (TSRT-047) and one for saws with a 36″ fence (TSRT-029). Both of these tables are 27″ wide and will fit much any table saw that has a 27″ deep table, including most contractor style, hybrid, and cabinet style table saws.
Most table saws begin with an extension wing on the right-hand side of the saw table. Returning this wing with a router table is an exemplary adjustment to your saw. It is comfortable, saves valuable rug space, and it’s reasonable to build. When I chose to add a table-mounted router to my small shop, adding it as an extension to my saw was my best choice. I also required efficient dust control, but none of the commercially available dust control systems appealed to me. So I chose to design my own.
Careful Measurements Come First
Eliminate the extension wing of your saw and define the size of your new router table extension. The most crucial dimension is the width — the gap between saw fence bars; mine was 271⁄8″. The depth of the extension is somewhat inconsistent. I preferred mine to extend to the end of the fence bars, which on my saw is 161⁄2″. If you want an even broader table, you can extend a bit farther, but no more than about 6″ past the end of the rails. You can also find setting up router table if you have any problem regarding set up.
Building the Frame
Bolting your completed extension to the saw can be the most difficult part of the project. To build the frame first; that way, you can deal with different mounting requirements and barriers.
Build the frame from 1×4 solid wood to the dimensions prepared in the earlier step. The width is crucial; the frame should fit snugly between the saw bars. Butt-joint the frame bits using 2″ screws and yellow glue. Then add a bar inside the frame to support the top; this route should be at a depth equal to the closeness of the bottom plywood layer. I adopted a bit of 3/4″ piece as a gauge.
Now fit the frame into space on the saw. Considering the middle and top layers will lean on top of the frame, set the top of the frame about 5/16″ deeper than the cast-iron saw facade and mark this location. Then mark the location of the stroke holes for connecting the frame to the saw table.
I tapped black paint around the bolt holes, then ironed the frame against the top. The assigned paint clearly shows the hole location on the wood frame.
Drill these holes and stretch them, and all others, for later height modification. Now bolt the frame to the fence bars. You may not be able to use the original bolts that came with the saw. Leave the frame in position for now; you will be making minor improvements to succeeding components for access to the bolts you just installed. Better to do these now than later!
Making the Bottom Layer
This layer fits inside the frame, so cover the inside dimensions and chopped a piece of 3/4″ birch plywood to fit. Go onward and set this plywood board into the frame.
Looking from the subordinate, you will see that the plywood has likely prevented access to the bars. Mark the location of all bars, and transform the plywood layer overhead. You can now cut off little blocks of plywood so that you have room to get a wrench onto the bolt heads. I used a 1-1⁄4″ pot saw, and a hand saw. Don’t bother about the gaps you have left in the plywood; there will be a sheet of MDF covering this field. Place the plywood back into the frame and monitor your wrench access to the bars.
Next, it’s time to route a recess in the top of the plywood layer to become the internal dust bearing chamber and drill a hole for the vacuum combination. Pretending you will be joining the vacuum hose from the back of the saw, the routed recess and drilled hole will look like the photo on the left. Note the oblique cross lines that mark the table’s center point.
Rout a 1/2″-deep recess as displayed in the drawing, then drill the 2″-diameter vacuum wallplug hole with a hole saw. I mounted four quick guides to the plywood to help me rout the rectangular portion of the recess, then routed the rounded ends freehand.
With the frame yet in the saw, dry-fit the plywood into the frame. The plywood should be flat with the top of the frame, with the vacuum outlet determined to the backside of the saw. Remove the frame.
Moving Up to the Middle and Top
As I said earlier, the middle MDF layer and top laminate layer rest on top of the frame. Cut them both oversized, to begin with — you’ll rig them down later. Mae- sure the outside dimensions of the structure and add an inch to that length and width so that there will be 1/2″ overhang on all sides of the frame. Using association cement and a roller, glue the laminate work surface onto the MDF layer. Once the layers are bonded collectively, use a 1-1⁄2″ hole saw to drill the top bit beginning at the center of the combined laminate/MDF layer.
Bolting the Table to the Saw
Considering you built the frame to fit your particular saw and provided a way to the mounting bolts, this step should be pretty easy. When you get the table loosely connected. Set a straightedge on the table surface of the saw, and check that it is level and well-aligned. You may have to quire out a bolt hole or two in the frame to get the router table glow and deck with the saw table. Then bolt the project firmly in place on the saw. With that, you’re finished building this project. Now you’re able to set it into service by doing some test cuts! I expect your new router table is as comfortable and dust-free as mine has turned out to be.